Goose visited the very chilled (in more ways than one) Berlin this January to check out the latest brands showing their AW17 collections. Covering Seek, Bright, Premium and Panorama we looked at a variety of sectors covering sport, street, lifestyle and commercial offerings.
Seek has established itself as the contemporary urban show that covers a cool selection of brands from small, up and coming independents to well known super brands, showcasing a level of commerciality across denim, contemporary fashion and sports-lifestyle. Situated on the spree, in Arena, the winter vibe is not as vibrant as summer but the collections gave a feeling of optimism through colour and silhouette.
Attached to Seek, the grittier younger sibling, Bright, provides a heavier street and sport lifestyle offering with a range of established to young brands exhibiting. Apparel, accessories, footwear, skate equipment and art were included.
The clue is in the name with more premium brands exhibiting here. On a much larger scale to Seek & Bright, Premium showcases contemporary international fashion and premium sportswear brands. From small to established companies there was a good buzz to the show with newness that looked fresh amongst the followers.
Brands exhibit on a grand scale with elaborate VM displays to show their new collections. There was plenty of colour, print and silhouette interest to be seen here. A lot of the brands have a southern European aesthetic with bolder colours and heavier washes and detailing.
Here’s an insight of what’s to come for the season:
Military and function seemed to be the key take away inspiring silhouettes for AW17
Padded jackets and puffas remain a key functionality and layering looks become firm wardrobe staples. These are seen in many guises from voluminous oversized silhouettes to lightweight shacket styles. Italian brand OOF displayed their SS17 collection of reversible pieces which offered a look for everyone from smarter sartorial styling to bold streetwear inspired looks.
Warm nudes were popped with military greens and pinks moved away from the sea of black and navy of previous shows. Obviously, this was still present but outfits were full of variant tones to give depth to our beloved core colours.
Oxblood, rusted red and orange shade are still relevant and complement the season’s green and navy tones perfectly. Combining in prints and jacquards then pairing with sporty brights gives a fresh look.
MADS NORGAARD played brights and neutrals off beautifully whilst mixing textures.
Bold typography was seen with gusto, every brand has interpreted this in their own way, either through random wording or branded versions.
One brand to watch for this was ONTOUR who combined bold placement with soft hand-feel and sophisticated colour combinations that worked with their refined silhouettes and fabric selections.
Velcro badges were another favourite, being able to personalise through colour or character, evoking the military influence seen in silhouette.
OUTHERE are a new premium downfilled jacket brand with high performance fabrications, a clean technical aesthetic and bold internal statement branding. The brand is gaining popularity from Japanese buyers and will be launching a women’s line later this year.
Another brand that caught our eye was 42|54 – A Belgian label founded by two Olympic gold medalists to create functional and effortless activewear for today’s superheroines – the women trying to balance a career, family and social life whilst making time for an active healthy lifestyle. Working with Belgian manufacturers, they continue to champion their country and focus on exceptional quality. Now in their second season the collection is feminine and elegant with a touch of trend and premium fabrics.
At Goose we love CLUSE and they didn’t disappoint this season with affordable watches that continue to look amazing with a clean elegance.
TEDDYFISH were a new one for us; Dual bag openings with a neat look for the zipper with something we hadn’t seen before, also being very comfortable to wear.
STIGERWOODS included some beautiful pieces that looked like ceramic tiles but are actually photography on wood.
Happy Socks founders showcased their new fashion brand of corduroy only apparel – THE CORDS & CO is due to launch in mono brand stores in L.A, New York, London, Paris, Stockholm and Tokyo in August this year.
A cool brand we spotted at Bright (Seek venue) was Laser. Keeping true to their brand ethos of being local and keeping it local, it showcases artists designs representing their environment and uses in-house teams to screen print and produce the designs.
What caught our eye was the print created by Cristina Daura, who pulled together icons of Barcelona, including the brands flagship store, into her amazing and unique style.
With cool graphics, simple styles and cool colourways, a small offer currently being stocked at Montana in the UK but we hope more suppliers snapped this up so we can easily get our mitts on more of this cool shit!
Check it out on http://laser-bcn.com
At Premium we spoke to Tauko Designs; a sustainable fashion brand. They have been mastering their production and sourcing to launch their first collection in 2008 and are now showcasing a beautiful and thoughtful collection that we saw for AW17/18.
Tauko stands for ‘a break’ or ‘pause’ in Finnish. This plays into their ethos perfectly as their brand’s purpose was to be more sustainable and responsible. They started the brand setting up the sourcing and production infrastructure first to ensure that the designs could work with recycled fabrications and ecological design. They offer a lifetime guarantee and repair packs to ensure longevity and reinforce their sustainable approach.
The collection is sleek and considered with luxury being found in refined design and tactile fabrications, a combination of natural and synthetic.
The need for more awareness and sustainability is becoming ever essential in a world of fast and disposable fashion. Its refreshing to see a brand infuse this from the beginning, not an add on to appear more connected for the sake of it.
Available online, heres hoping the UK can stock this brand soon.
We noticed Arc Minute at Premium this season. A London based brand and a baby to the market starting up in 2016. They are set to establish themselves with innovative and thoughtful design at affordable prices.
As this company grows so does their philanthropist approach. At at present they donate 10% of their revenue to the homeless.
Their AW17/18 collection showcased a minimal colour palette that was popped with a cool vivid floral jacquard. With it’s base in London, keep your eyes peeled for this brand to grow.
At Goose we are always excited to see what new patterns and colours Happy socks come up with and were over the moon to hear about their exciting new venture into Hysteria; ‘The first lifestyle sock brand for the modern, fashion-concious woman’, socks that work with and compliment the latest trends while still being able to inject personality into your look. We can’t wait to purchase ours soon!
The Goose gang celebrated Christmas this year at The Nordic Yulefest London. The festive pop up curated by Meredith Collective has set up camp in Old Street for the month of December transforming Shoreditch into an enchanted Winter Wonderland. There you can enjoy an in-themed cocktail like their Fingerbread Mule or opt for their 6 course Feasting Menu featuring barbecued Reindeer. One of the cool things that the Yulefest boasts is their alcoholic snow that guests are encouraged to catch in their mouths. We personally enjoyed the big bear photobooth and took our fair share of snaps with the big guy.
The Nordic Yulefest runs until the 18th December at 347 Old Street, London.
Photos by The Nordic Yulefest
Currently on at Olympia, London is the Brand Licensing Europe 2016 show and yesterday we went to have a look around the stands and meet with an array of great brands and licensing companies. The show is one of the most fun in the calendar, where else can you grab a chat with legendary Paul Frank and even David Hasselhoff himself.
Visiting the show we sat through interesting keynote talks from Sports brands such as the NBA, FIFA and RFU, we also got to try new products launching including some VR games.
The Brand Licensing Europe 2016 is on until the 13th October, for more information visit their website here.
From Jenni Arksey, MD Goose.
Thank you LinkedIn for reminding me this week it’s been 14 years since starting Goose. Where has that time gone? We have now worked with over 80 brands from start-ups to major fashion lifestyle and sportswear brands and from this we have been lucky enough to get the chance to mix it all up and innovate on all levels.
We have also survived 2 major recessions.
This year we won our first design award, in fact it was the first time we ever entered one.
We have worked with some talented teams across the world and made great friends throughout our journey as they have moved on and taken us with them.
We have seen the focus on the business shift from design towards strategy as our extensive knowledge becomes valuable to help brands refocus and redefine themselves in a highly competitive market. We can help brands evaluate their DNA into a product strategy to really establish their identity – it is so important now to have that clarity.
We have also been involved in more branding concepts because we understand how this works within apparel – on and off the product.
So this message is not about the next big trend or what’s going on in London, but it’s really to say thank you to anyone reading this who has worked with us, at some point, trusted our knowledge and skills and supported us throughout these years.
And it just happens to be National Champagne week.
So here’s to another 14!
September 2016 saw the first edition of the London Design Biennale set up home in the iconic Somerset House. From the 7th-25th of September 30 countries and territories participated in presenting commissioned works that explore the theme of Utopia by Design.
Curated by leading design organisations and museums the London Design Biennale explored ideas about sustainability, migration, pollution, energy and social equality through the installations.
Fran, our own Goose Designer visited the exhibition taking a journey through country by country seeing how each portrayed their vision of Utopia. Some standouts were:
Israel – Human Touch
Presented by ACT Shenkar were two projects showing innovation and a real meeting of need on a humanitarian and personal level. The first was a device designed to parachute supplies into disaster areas and the second name Louder was a special speaker designed for deaf people. Stimulating sight with a visual speaker that moved in relation to rhythm and beats, additionally stimulating touch through a floor surface allowing you to feel vibrations through the feet.
Russia – Discovering Utopia: Lost Archives of Soviet Design
Moscow Design Museum gave a glimpse into the idealised world created by Soviet designers that never got to be seen before by the public. The Russian installation, presented as a rediscovered archive, tells the story of the forgotten daring projects inspired by ‘utopian’ visions of the future.
Spain – VRPolis, Diving into the Future
One of the more tech inspired installations Dimelaomi Productions created this for the Spanish Ministry of Education, Culture and Sport, VRPolis, Diving into the Future asks what a smart city could be capable of 100 years from now. This 360-degree VR experience immersed visitors into the multitude of possibilities for towns of the future.
The whole show was a great insight to each territories commentary on their current government and social structure showing the different, and complexity of the world we live in and the differences in what we are all striving for a Utopia. For more about the event and to keep up to date for the next one visit http://www.londondesignbiennale.com/